Kyosho Sandmaster St 2 Manual
1/10 Scale Nitro Truck/Truggy: Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 - 31543 (Radio Controlled Model Review)Navigation: ▶ ▶ History, Info (and How To Set-up Tips) for the Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2:Released by Kyosho circa 1998, the 2WD Sandmaster ST2 Stadium Truck - # 31543 - was based on a molded plastic chassis, with a gear type differential, coil spring over oil filled dampers and dogbone drive-shafts. The kit also included a GT-12SCR engine.▼ Scroll Down for More Images ▼To race the Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2, it needs to be tuned to perfection for better stability, precise steering and provide enough grip to keep you on the track when going around tight bends at high speed.
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Even the smallest adjustment can change the feel of a car and our simple to follow instructions will guide you to the best to get you to the front and keep you there. ★ Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 ★★ Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 Chassis ★★ Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 Chassis ★Buying a Used Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 Truck (and What to look for)Buying a used Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 Nitro Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Truck you may discover, can easily be fixed.When you receive your used Kyosho Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced.
Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten.Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up. At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible.If the body shell of your Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue.
Also, for added protection and if available for your Sandmaster ST-2 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily.If you intend to race your Sandmaster ST-2 Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods.The gearbox of your used Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil).
Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.Gears are a weakness on all Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry.The Sandmaster ST-2 steering servo is also prone to damage.
Original manual comes with it but i forgot to take a picture. There are 2 spots that are broken which i took closeups of but doesnt seem to affect performance.
In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality 'Servo Saver'. Check out my article.If body roll on your Kyosho Sandmaster ST-2 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers.If your used Kyosho Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings (ring type bearings), check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings.
If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. RC Information and Advice:.Hints and Tips DampersDampers, Shock Absorbers, Shocks call them what you will, they are one of the least understood, but most important tools you have for adjusting the handling characteristics of your RC model.In this article, I will endeavour to explain just what you can achieve by making simple tweaks to your shocks and how these tweaks can keep you ahead of your opposition on the track.In dictionary terms 'Damper' is described as 'A mechanical device to absorb the energy of sudden impulses.' In plain language, they stop your car from bouncing all over the track.So how do Dampers work?Basically what you have is a small amount of silicone oil contained in a sealed cylinder. Through the centre of that cylinder is a metal rod and on the end of that rod, a piston with a number of small holes in it. Pulling, or pushing the rod in and out of the cylinder, your will notice a certain amount of resistance as the oil is forced through the holes in the piston. To manipulate that resistance you have two options.
You could use thicker or thinner oil, or change the size of the holes in the piston. So if you have thicker oil, or smaller holes, you have more resistance. Less viscous oil or larger holes, less resistance.
This simple physical relationship, coupled with a good set of tuning springs, is all you need to set-up your car to beat the rest.Out on the race track, the main thing you want to avoid is your car bouncing around all over the place, sliding, or even rolling over when you negotiate a tight corner. To prevent this you need to make changes, but before you make those changes you need to consider what your problem is for that particular track. How your model reacts when cornering does it Under-steer? (Slide towards the outside of the corner) or Over-steer (Turns towards the inside of the corner).
Does it react differently when you exit the corner to how it did when you entered it?Once you have decided what your problem is, go to our 'Set-Up' page linked below and follow the step by step instructions. But remember to only make ONE change at a time. If the first suggestion isn't enough to cure the problem, add the second and so on, until you find that perfect setting. Good luck and good racing.For More Setup Information check out my page.Hints and Tips AckermanSo What is Ackerman?If you place your car on a table facing away from you and turn the steering to full lock to the left, you will notice the angle the left hand wheel has turned is more than that of the right hand wheel. That is the Ackerman effect.Moving your car to the edge of the table, with the wheels still on full lock, push it round a complete circle.
What you will notice, is the diameter of the circle made by the inside wheel, is smaller than that of the outside wheel. This is a good thing.Consider what would happen if both wheels turned to the same angle. In this example, the inside wheel would have a tendency to drag sideways, making the car unstable and difficult to drive.The standard kit setting on the majority of RC Model cars, are generally pretty good for beginners, but when your experience increases, you will find out just what tuning your Ackerman can do for your driving style and why it can be helpful when setting up your car for any particular track.Some of the cheaper RC Models have fixed position steering links. Others have various methods to change Ackerman settings, like changing shims under the ball connector etc. These days, most modern cars allow you to adjust your Ackerman by lengthening or shortening the links by simply removing two screws and repositioning the links in relation to the front suspension arms.Lengthening the links, by adjusting the pivot points of the steering arms back towards the centre line of the rear axle, will give you Less Ackerman, providing you with more aggressive steering as you enter a corner.
Tony Phalen -As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 25 years. He has raced everything from 1:18th scale trucks to 1:5 scale motorcycles and everything in-between. He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; working at and with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and has transferred that knowledge to CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!More articles.